Kawah Ijen is also the site of labor-intensive sulfur mining. There is no machinery, only continuous series of locals’ works. Since 1968, forced sulfur collectors have been working by day and night, in untenable conditions. A stream upwelling of sulfur from fumaroles at the crater base is the main source of a thriving enterprise.
Gathering the “yellow gold” and carrying heavy loads often 50 kg in weight or more make the company are capable to deliver at least 5 tons and even more every day. Paid more than usual daily wage, sulfur collectors are working for the only exclusive control of PT. Candi Ngrimbi for getting 600Rp per kilo. Having total 25,000Rp to 50,000Rp per day. But isn’t it equal for what workers get with the burden greater than hard physical labor. All these for what?
***
The Process of Sulfur Forming
The streaming flow of sulfur comes from fumaroles on the depth of the crater base. The steam and hot gases which enrich sulfur dioxide are emited. The series of steel pipeline installed on the fumaroles site help to establish the condensation process, which sulfur dioxide vapor flows through the pipeline condensate into liquid sulfur. Out from the hole of the pipelines, it turns out to solidify as the the temperature goes down.
One of attractions offered is the historical outlook on every detail of those architectural structures. Look back to the development history of coffee cultivation, then we realize how important the Dutch colonial thoughts in building several facilities to accommodate people on every duty. Moreover, at present, we can witness the existing architecture and some of them still function similar to what it had set up more than a century ago. Some managerial system use unchanged procedure toward what was Dutch doing in the colonial era. At least, we can determine for whatever Dutch's influence during a colonial era, this tremendously gives something benefit toward people there for make a living.
Not just the lush coffee plantation stretch over Ijen plateau estate, which is the only Dutch heritage, but also there are some to mention and still be a witness of historical landmark to tell on.
Catimore Homestay ( 900m)
Not just the lush coffee plantation stretch over Ijen plateau estate, which is the only Dutch heritage, but also there are some to mention and still be a witness of historical landmark to tell on.
Catimore Homestay ( 900m)
Built in 1894. The highlight is from the structure of building. The foundation of building made it higher than land surface while half of the wall material is designed from bamboo, deliver a classic touch. Examining to the construction of building, the foundation made from river stone for its stability, then goes to the upper part made from a light material. It is obvious that it was built to extend for the effect of severe quakes, like many building concept found in some architecture books.
Different from the outdoor appearance, when we come into the room, the nuance is totally difference – warm and old-fashioned style brings us to the retro colonial era. Wooden floor and bamboo fence still cover the interior space with its pastel paint and most the furniture made of wood. Decorated with old desaturated photo frames bring us to the era of 1800’s when the first owner, an expatriate sinder Degener resided for years to get occupied here, in Blawan. Series of repro photos of him and his family displayed at one of room corridor.
Jampit Guess House (1600 m)
Built in 1927. The highlight is from the building architecture and the spread of various flowerbed flourished here. The house was made of wood with a wooded roof board. There is a two-stories building. The first floor consists of four primary room covered with tick carpet and bathroom inside. On the second floor, there is a kitchen and dining room. The style of guest house adapted from European architecture style, in addition, it is equipped with fireplace. Looking out the window, there is the beauty of flower blooming on the yard and the shadow of mountainous landscape seeing from the veranda.
The guest house and its garden are intentionally well cared. Visitor is possible to see numerous type of flower from Europe which hardly seen elsewhere in the city.
It has been a tradition for every visitor overnight here must taste the delicious snack made of a mixture of fried potatoes and honey. A match companion while it served with hot Arabica coffee.
Pondok Bunder (Circle Shelter) (2214 m)
The shelter was built in 1920 while Dutch occupied the place. Why it is called a circle, yes because it forms definitely a circle. In Javanese term the name should be Pondok Bunder. Formerly, it was a circle-shape building but accidentally once in while, the standing tower installed near to the building fallen off, stroke and made it collapse, therefore now we can see only a half-circle structure.
The primary function was to measure the volume of rain drops and to monitor the excess water from Ijen Crater Lake. Located about 2 km up to Pos Paltuding.
Dam Barrier (2145 m)
Dam barrier built in almost the same year of the construction of Pondok Bunder. There are 4 channels which have function to preserve the level of exceeding water lake. The scenario had been well created whenever the exceeding water happen at any time then the water flow down into Kalipait, this would recover the nearest populated area. In 1986, the building had been renovated for any destructive part of building.
Even though there is less than a kilometre - approximately about 800m to reach Dam Barrier from Circle Shelter but be careful to reach up to the site, this going to be harmful because there is a short ravine at the left side. However, for nature lover this would be a breathtaking view as we can see a mountainous range that is Mt. Raung, Mt, Suket, Mt, Ranti, Mt, Roti, Mt Papak, Kalisat and Blawan plantation estate and a huge caldera rim of Mt.Ijen.
Standing from Dam Barrier, to reach to the edge of the crater that is about 100 m long, we can hike onto 210 steps upstairs’. There is a barrier formed from a boulder with the tall size is about 50 m and from the right side, a magnificent panorama of the stunning water lake come alive with us.
Historically said, the path toward Dam Barrier was the initial route used to lead any sulphur workers to the fumaroles site where there is a location of massive deposit of sulphuric rock. Of course the only way to reach it by making a bridge of connection. At that time, the only method had operated a sampan - a small flat-bottomed boat made of bamboo, across two-ways. Today, the path has been abandoned, the workers choose the alternative way to go down into the crater that it would be better, perhaps …
***
Ijen Volcano:
The Ijen volcano complex consists of a group of stratovolcanoes constructed within the large of 20 km Ijen caldera, the largest one in Java. It lies from exceed the northern east of Mt. Merapai (2,800 m) to the southern west of mountain Kendeng.
The Ijen volcano complex consists of a group of stratovolcanoes constructed within the large of 20 km Ijen caldera, the largest one in Java. It lies from exceed the northern east of Mt. Merapai (2,800 m) to the southern west of mountain Kendeng.
Topography map
Kawah Ijen is the centre for the youngest activity on this volcano with explosive eruptions from the crater being recorded up until 1936 (Van Padang, 1951). This volcano is still considered to be active. The primary danger may be caused by the eruption of Ijen are pyroclastic flows, lahar eruption, and lava flows.
Slice map
With the size of the crater is about 960 m x 600 m and has 5,466 acres wide, it’s obviously a huge crater lake which give a magnificient view and one of the nature wonder. Through almost all comercial flight operating between Denpasar and Surabaya, Yogyakarta or Jakarata normaly, if not directly over, then close by the Ijen plateau.
”As what writer had known from locals and the key person of the volcano, Mr. Im, Mt. Merapi is considered in dormant period, could be active at any time … “
Several extinct volcanoes are found inside the caldera such as Mt. Cilik (1872 m), Mt. Pendil (2375 m), Mt. Anyar (1276 m), Mt. Genteng (1712 m), Mt. Gelaman (1726 m), Mt. Kukusan (1994 m), Mt. Papak (2099 m), Mt. Widodaren (2100 m), Mt. Blau (1774 m), Mt. Gendingwaluh (1519 m), Mt. Lingker (1630 m), Mt. Kunci (1788 m).
***
Volcano and People
In many areas, volcanic ash helps create rich fertile soils that allow farmers to plant three crops per year. The most important cash crops are rice, sugar, and tobacco, with fruits and vegetables grown on the cooler highlands. Behind its hazard, it holds essensial for living. As it happened on the area of Ijen plateau, where there was a center of volcanic activity and historicaly made an enermous eruption, had deposited rich volcanic material which give an essential role to benefit fertile soils for use in cultivating the best plantation to grow. The coffee plantation covers almost all area of the plateau. Over 300 years ago, here was the famous Java coffee had ever been produced. Today, most villagers still rely on the yield of coffee along the years.
Reference: www.volcano.com.au (john Seach, volcanologist), www.volcano.si.edu
Blawan Waterfall
Blawan waterfall is located at Blawan village, 9km from Sempol. It can be accessed by car. It is the down stream of the Pahit river reserve and also the drainage of Kawah Ijen that contain sulphur. The water from Blawan waterfall goes down to earth then it shows up again in Asembagus, Situbondo.
Blawan Natural Hot Spring
It feels incomplete after going to Blawan waterfall without drop in to the hot spring pool to enjoy the warmth of nature spring (entrance fee: 2,000Rp). The water of this pool still has been believed to relieve pain and cure skin problem. Enjoy the warmth while having conversation with fellows.
The Agro Tourism of Arabica Coffee Plantation Kalisat-Jampit
The plantation tour is owned and managed by PTPN XII area of Kalisat/ Jampit. The width of this area is about 4000 hectares and inheritance some farming processes tradition, such as: picking coffee cherries on the field and delivering it to the factory, drying of coffee cherry and the process of milling coffee beans to produce the finest Arabica instant coffee which has unique taste and the nice fragrance. Several facilities to provide are tennis court, swimming pool, meeting room, entertainment.
About 14km from Arabica home stay, there is a guess house – Jampit and visitor can enjoy the beauty of flowerbed of lily grows well around the garden. This is also the place of cabbage and some vegetations. (Fee start from: 10,000Rp)
Kawah Wurung (Undeveloped Crater)
Kawah Wurung is located in the area of Curah Macan – Gending Waluh, it is about 12 km from Pos Paltuding, can be accessed by 4WD and motorbike. Kawah Wurung is an inactive crater with an interesting nature panorama and a vast growth of savanna. Its huge hollow terrain sized hundreds meters wide and has fantastic scenery with the background of Mt. Pendian, Mt. Anyar, and Mt. Pendil.
Mt. Merapi (2800m)
The highest mount in the site which give a pleasure and proud of hiking , from pos paltuding we can start hiking for 5-7 hours, this mt. is rarely hiked by visitors.
From Bondowoso
The direction of Ijen tourism destination can be accesed via two alternative routes. Either the route from Bondowoso or Banyuwangi. Today, any vehicle could run all the way to Kawah Ijen. Sometimes many travelers choose to go by public transportation or even motorbike. However it depends on your pace of creating enjoyable travel experiences.
From Bondowoso
It is suggested the easiest start from Bondowoso for any travelers depart from Surabaya and transfer by bus to Bondowoso (180km). No train transport is possible to Bondowoso. (See: Transportation)
Transportation:
Bus (departure; length; fare)*:
Surabaya to: Probolinggo (every 30min; 3hr; Rp.14,000Rp), Bondowoso (hourly; 4-5hr; Rp.25,000), Banyuwangi (every 30min; 5 – 7hr; Rp.45,000); Jember (every 30min; 4-5hr; 25,000Rp); Malang (every 30min;2hr;14,000Rp); Denpasar (hourly; 11-12hr; Rp.90,000).
Jember to: Bondowoso (hourly; 1hr; 7,500Rp), Banyuwangi (every 30min; 3-4hr; 17,000Rp), Malang (via Probolingo; 2hr; 14,000Rp).
* Economy class, Express has double fare.
Car charter (include driver and fuel)*:
Surabaya to: Probolinggo/Bromo (start from 200,000Rp per person; 2.5hr;); Kawah Ijen (start from 400,000Rp per.person);
Probolinggo/Bromo to: Kawah Ijen (start from 200,000Rp per.person);
* hire a car is practical way to go. There is a discounted fare if share with other travelers.
From Bondowoso bus terminal, you can get public transportation to Sempol (15,000Rp; approx. 3hr), there is only mini-bus transport picked the passengers up to Sempol, the last bus stop and the nearest location to find the homestay – Arabica Homestay and Catimore Homestay. However, you have less convinience to get this transport as its departure and arrival could not be predicted sure. The last mini-bus to go at around 4 p.m. Starting from Bondowoso, the route goes to Gardu Atak which is 12 km long and head up to the eastern directon of Sukosari. If you want to make it faster, from Gardu Atak you can stop here then find several ojek/ motorbike drivers waiting for customer. Ask him to take you up to Paltuding (start from 100,000Rp; 55km; 2-3hr).
The long twisted roads will accomany us to enjoy the fertile plantation of sugar cane field, paddy field and dense tropical forest dominated the landscape. From Sukosari to Sempol it takes 32 km to arrive.
“ For backpacking travelers this would be definetly acceptable as we can enjoy the trip by knowing how to connect from one place to another. See around the landscape and feel the temperature change. The dense tropical forest of casuarina and pine tree allow our mind free. The road condition is fine except from the section of Pondok Jeruk to Cilalap and the rest is likely better. On few hours driving, the roads climb gradually. Afterward just reach to Malabar the roads begin to descent sudenly as it bends and turns through hills surounding where fresh mountain smell get wondered that it would close to the destination. About few minutes we reach at Pos Malabar, a small security checkpost. A crossbar hinders someone passing the road. Usually just a quick look the guard notices who is inside the car and let them go. Reaching to Pos Malabar means it would be entering the areal of Arabica coffee plantation.
Near to the security checkpost, there is a small café shop with a large sign advertising the finest Java coffee. Here is the best viewpoint to obviously remark numerous mountains up there when the weather is so bright. See around. We will gaze at the fractured boundary rising up encircled us of what must once had been a giant volcano and erupted enormously then it formed into a huge volcanic caldera. Just drop by and enjoy the panoramic view of a huge caldera while siting relax for a cup of finest Java hot coffee. ”.
If you plan to make a daytrip, there is possible to extend driving from Sempol to Pos Paltuding and start directly to hike. Find someone in Sempol who will take you by motorbike to Pos Paltuding (13km; 20min; 50,000Rp one-way or 75,000Rp two-way). If you want to leave Sempol, Kalisat or Blawan after hiking to kawah Ijen, usually someone are willing to take you up to Ketapang harbor-Banyuwangi (45km more; 1-2hr; around 140,000Rp). At Pos Paltuding, there is not sure to meet any motorbike driver who will take you back or to Ketapang harbor but ask to any ranger who stand by there to call on someone take you to the next route.
From Banyuwangi
From Banyuwangi
Travelers come from Bali (Denpasar) can drive directly to Ketapang harbor and connect from Gilimanuk to Ketapang by ferryboat. From Ketapang, there is possible to hire car or motorbike taxi directly go to preferable homestay whichever on Pos Paltuding, Catimore-Blawan, or Arabica-Kalisat.
Transportation
Denpasar to: Ketapang (hourly; 4-5hr; 45000Rp; Express: 60,000Rp), Banyuwangi (hourly; 4-5hr; 45,000Rp)
Ferryboat from and to Gilimanuk (every 30min; 30min; 5,500Rp)
Banyuwangi to: Jember (hourly; 4hr; 20,000Rp), Probolinggo (hourly; 6hr; 30,000Rp); Surabaya (hourly; 7hr; 45,000Rp); Malang (via Probolinggo;2hr;12,000Rp)
Train: Day and night connection with Surabaya Kota Station (5-7 hr; Express: Rp60,000Rp; Economy:20,000Rp). Call for train departure at Ph: 0333-?
Car charter from Banyuwangi to Paltuding: (vary from 50.000Rp; make a bargain; 1–2 hr; 40-55km)
Ketapang has developed into a thriving centre. It’s quiet busy and of course has a lot facility availabe. There are restaurant and small shop, tourist information service – East Java Tourist Information Booth – inside ferry terminal, a train station- just opposite the ferry terminal, a bus station – just outside the ferry terminal and couple of hotels few kilometers to the south.
Some travelers choose to get public transport from Ketapang to Blambangan terminal (5,000Rp; 20min) and transfer to the next terminal Sasak Perot/Karangasem (3,000Rp; 10min) and then mini-bus runs to Jambu (7,500Rp; 25min). From here an ojek/ motobike driver can be hired to Pos Paltuding or preferable homestay (Cost from 50,000Rp-100,000Rp; 30min). Finding someone to take you up to Pos Paltuding from Jambu is very easy, there are several ojek waiting for customer. Find someone with stronger motorbike.
“Going to Ijen from Banyuwangi would be a secondary route to start. Today, the road condition is better along the way to Pos Paltuding and it is accessible by any kind of vehicle with the exception for the road along Sodong, 13 km to Pos Paltuding. From Ketapang ferry terminal, only take about 45km to Pos Paltuding. Driving to Pos paltuding from Banyuwangi is possible to spot a lush glove and coffee plantation and dense tropical forest. During August to October we can enjoy an exciting scene of workers havesting either glove or coffee plantation in the area of Jambu plantation estate. The workers are usually women wearing long sleeve, long skirt or jeans, hat and rubber boot. We can interact with them and ask question about the plantation as the workers are glad to answer to. In the area of Sodong, there is one very steep road called Erek-erek, so be prepared to control the motor gear on 2nd and 1st. It is only few meters a head but the road combined with curve make it tricky to drive.”
The direction of Ijen tourism destination can be accesed via two alternative routes. Either the route from Bondowoso or Banyuwangi. Today, any vehicle could run all the way to Kawah Ijen. Sometimes many travelers choose to go by public transportation or even motorbike. However it depends on your pace of creating enjoyable travel experiences.
From Bondowoso
It is suggested the easiest start from Bondowoso for any travelers depart from Surabaya and transfer by bus to Bondowoso (180km). No train transport is possible to Bondowoso. (See: Transportation)
Transportation:
Bus (departure; length; fare)*:
Surabaya to: Probolinggo (every 30min; 3hr; Rp.14,000Rp), Bondowoso (hourly; 4-5hr; Rp.25,000), Banyuwangi (every 30min; 5 – 7hr; Rp.45,000); Jember (every 30min; 4-5hr; 25,000Rp); Malang (every 30min;2hr;14,000Rp); Denpasar (hourly; 11-12hr; Rp.90,000).
Jember to: Bondowoso (hourly; 1hr; 7,500Rp), Banyuwangi (every 30min; 3-4hr; 17,000Rp), Malang (via Probolingo; 2hr; 14,000Rp).
* Economy class, Express has double fare.
Car charter (include driver and fuel)*:
Surabaya to: Probolinggo/Bromo (start from 200,000Rp per person; 2.5hr;); Kawah Ijen (start from 400,000Rp per.person);
Probolinggo/Bromo to: Kawah Ijen (start from 200,000Rp per.person);
* hire a car is practical way to go. There is a discounted fare if share with other travelers.
From Bondowoso bus terminal, you can get public transportation to Sempol (15,000Rp; approx. 3hr), there is only mini-bus transport picked the passengers up to Sempol, the last bus stop and the nearest location to find the homestay – Arabica Homestay and Catimore Homestay. However, you have less convinience to get this transport as its departure and arrival could not be predicted sure. The last mini-bus to go at around 4 p.m. Starting from Bondowoso, the route goes to Gardu Atak which is 12 km long and head up to the eastern directon of Sukosari. If you want to make it faster, from Gardu Atak you can stop here then find several ojek/ motorbike drivers waiting for customer. Ask him to take you up to Paltuding (start from 100,000Rp; 55km; 2-3hr).
The long twisted roads will accomany us to enjoy the fertile plantation of sugar cane field, paddy field and dense tropical forest dominated the landscape. From Sukosari to Sempol it takes 32 km to arrive.
“ For backpacking travelers this would be definetly acceptable as we can enjoy the trip by knowing how to connect from one place to another. See around the landscape and feel the temperature change. The dense tropical forest of casuarina and pine tree allow our mind free. The road condition is fine except from the section of Pondok Jeruk to Cilalap and the rest is likely better. On few hours driving, the roads climb gradually. Afterward just reach to Malabar the roads begin to descent sudenly as it bends and turns through hills surounding where fresh mountain smell get wondered that it would close to the destination. About few minutes we reach at Pos Malabar, a small security checkpost. A crossbar hinders someone passing the road. Usually just a quick look the guard notices who is inside the car and let them go. Reaching to Pos Malabar means it would be entering the areal of Arabica coffee plantation.
Near to the security checkpost, there is a small café shop with a large sign advertising the finest Java coffee. Here is the best viewpoint to obviously remark numerous mountains up there when the weather is so bright. See around. We will gaze at the fractured boundary rising up encircled us of what must once had been a giant volcano and erupted enormously then it formed into a huge volcanic caldera. Just drop by and enjoy the panoramic view of a huge caldera while siting relax for a cup of finest Java hot coffee. ”.
If you plan to make a daytrip, there is possible to extend driving from Sempol to Pos Paltuding and start directly to hike. Find someone in Sempol who will take you by motorbike to Pos Paltuding (13km; 20min; 50,000Rp one-way or 75,000Rp two-way). If you want to leave Sempol, Kalisat or Blawan after hiking to kawah Ijen, usually someone are willing to take you up to Ketapang harbor-Banyuwangi (45km more; 1-2hr; around 140,000Rp). At Pos Paltuding, there is not sure to meet any motorbike driver who will take you back or to Ketapang harbor but ask to any ranger who stand by there to call on someone take you to the next route.
From Banyuwangi
From Banyuwangi
Travelers come from Bali (Denpasar) can drive directly to Ketapang harbor and connect from Gilimanuk to Ketapang by ferryboat. From Ketapang, there is possible to hire car or motorbike taxi directly go to preferable homestay whichever on Pos Paltuding, Catimore-Blawan, or Arabica-Kalisat.
Transportation
Denpasar to: Ketapang (hourly; 4-5hr; 45000Rp; Express: 60,000Rp), Banyuwangi (hourly; 4-5hr; 45,000Rp)
Ferryboat from and to Gilimanuk (every 30min; 30min; 5,500Rp)
Banyuwangi to: Jember (hourly; 4hr; 20,000Rp), Probolinggo (hourly; 6hr; 30,000Rp); Surabaya (hourly; 7hr; 45,000Rp); Malang (via Probolinggo;2hr;12,000Rp)
Train: Day and night connection with Surabaya Kota Station (5-7 hr; Express: Rp60,000Rp; Economy:20,000Rp). Call for train departure at Ph: 0333-?
Car charter from Banyuwangi to Paltuding: (vary from 50.000Rp; make a bargain; 1–2 hr; 40-55km)
Ketapang has developed into a thriving centre. It’s quiet busy and of course has a lot facility availabe. There are restaurant and small shop, tourist information service – East Java Tourist Information Booth – inside ferry terminal, a train station- just opposite the ferry terminal, a bus station – just outside the ferry terminal and couple of hotels few kilometers to the south.
Some travelers choose to get public transport from Ketapang to Blambangan terminal (5,000Rp; 20min) and transfer to the next terminal Sasak Perot/Karangasem (3,000Rp; 10min) and then mini-bus runs to Jambu (7,500Rp; 25min). From here an ojek/ motobike driver can be hired to Pos Paltuding or preferable homestay (Cost from 50,000Rp-100,000Rp; 30min). Finding someone to take you up to Pos Paltuding from Jambu is very easy, there are several ojek waiting for customer. Find someone with stronger motorbike.
“Going to Ijen from Banyuwangi would be a secondary route to start. Today, the road condition is better along the way to Pos Paltuding and it is accessible by any kind of vehicle with the exception for the road along Sodong, 13 km to Pos Paltuding. From Ketapang ferry terminal, only take about 45km to Pos Paltuding. Driving to Pos paltuding from Banyuwangi is possible to spot a lush glove and coffee plantation and dense tropical forest. During August to October we can enjoy an exciting scene of workers havesting either glove or coffee plantation in the area of Jambu plantation estate. The workers are usually women wearing long sleeve, long skirt or jeans, hat and rubber boot. We can interact with them and ask question about the plantation as the workers are glad to answer to. In the area of Sodong, there is one very steep road called Erek-erek, so be prepared to control the motor gear on 2nd and 1st. It is only few meters a head but the road combined with curve make it tricky to drive.”
“There is a breathtaking view of landscape at the eastern end of Java created within the huge 20km in diameter of caldera, the largest one in Java. The famous coffee production delivered worldwide comes from this site that it dominates much along the mountenous plateau. Travelers can enjoy the perfect cup of coffee while siting relax seeing the picturesque landscape from the homestay balcony, but this would not be complete without exploring more; its waterfall, natural hot spring, long-standing building, savanna, mountains and other plantations. Even located on the remote area, at the period of Dutch colonial era, this site had been well developed for cultivating any best grown plantations. After all, the major atrraction at this site of course without doubt people called it Kawah Ijen, the stunning turquoise crater lake will boasts you to the unforgetable travel experiences.”
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